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Machu Picchu

Published by Donald Miller | Filed under journal entries

14 Jun 07

A week or so ago I returned from my first vacation in a long time. Friends and I met in Peru to hike the Inca Trail which ends at Machu Picchu. The Andes are incredible mountains, and the people who live there are as humble as the mountains are grand. I wondered whether the typeography affected their personalities. They seem to live small beneath the giants. Peruvian farmers, many of whom live in the high valleys of the Andes, will farm squares of land as high or higher than ten-thousand feet, along slopes that to you and I would find difficult to even walk across. They do this to get the crops higher on the slope so they receive more sunlight. But from the valley floor, the hike to the fields of corn would seem to be a days work. To them it is a daily commute.

On the Inca Trail itself, porters carry goods to the next camp or lunch spot. The hike tops out on Dead Woman’s Pass at around 14,000 feet, and the porters would pass us with no less than fifty pounds of gear on their back. They made turtles of us, we in our expensive shoes and new gear, they in their beaten sandals, their gear wrapped in sheets and carried over their shoulders.

The Inca Trail navigates around 26 miles over three mountain passes, each offering a stunning view of a South American range that would make foothills of the Rockies. We hiked through four separate ecosystems, each with its own plant life and, as hard as it is to explain, its own sky. The desert landscape of the trail head plodded through the Sacred Valley under barren blue skies, and once over the first pass we found ourselves in the high jungle, where clouds rolled wet over the shoulders of the mountains and crept low and slow across the valley floor as though they were looking for food. From the high jungle we descended many hours down ancient Inca steps to our last camp where we got short sleep before making the final plunge toward the Sun Gate, a high mountain overlook that sits above Machu Picchu. We arrived around sunrise, but were fogged in by the clouds, so descended into the ruins and saw them up close until the clouds burned off. When the mist finally cleared, we were able to see the ruins in whole and they are truly spectacular.

At the beginning of the hike, Marcos, our guide, told us that there is a shorter trek to Machu Picchu. If we hiked up the Sacred Valley, we could get their in six short hours. But we would be taking the long trek. Four days of stairs and switchbacks (perhaps four switchbacks the entire trek. The Inca did not use wheels, so when they built their trail, they went straight up and straight down the mountains.) In the time of the Inca, the shorter trek was used as a commercial route, but those who would visit Machu Picchu on a spiritual pilgrimage would do so using the long route. They did this in order to arrive pure. And I think that is how most of us felt when we arrived. Pure. And changed. If you ever get the chance, hike the Inca Trail. It has the affect of a good story in that you are different at the end.

I will attempt to post pictures soon and will provide a link.

Don

June 14th, 2007


18 Responses to “Machu Picchu”

  1. JJ Says:
    June 14th, 2007 at 12:17 pm

    So, I realize this is a crummy way for me to get a hold of you… cause I’m pretending to post a comment about your journal entry… which is great by the way, but in all honesty, I picked this one cause no one else left a comment on here so I thought maybe this one would be a good way to grab your attention. So… that said… I saw you last night at Willow Creek Church. It was amazing. The Whole experience, especially being able to tell you how much I appreciate Ch. 7 of Blue Like Jazz. “I used to be a fundamentalist once…” simple statement, huge meaning. So anyway… Last night you quoted Robert McKee and you ended the night with this statement… “Write everyday, line by line, page by page, hour by hour. Do this despite fear.” Not to remind you of what you said… I only re-qoute it because I really want to have that whole statement, but I could only get down those lines before the screen changed. On my way back home I had the thought that maybe I could actually do what I want to do, but fearing that it is too big, I caught myself saying outloud “but that would be scary.” Immediately I laughed cause I remembered what you said… “as soon as you come up with this great ambition, you’re going to be scared!” Whoa! If there’s anyway you could get the rest of that quote to me, it’d be awesome! Thanks so much for your words, and don’t ever stop writing. When you get stumped or don’t have the words to say, that statement by Robert McKee is my prayer for you… “Write everyday, line by line, page by page, hour by hour. Do this despite fear.”

  2. Taylor Says:
    June 14th, 2007 at 5:50 pm

    I just got done watching your talk at Willow Creek online. I loved when you shared this story about your journey through Peru. It is so true, “the more difficult the journey, the more you will appreciate it when you arrive.” We can’t always try to free ourselves from the struggle, but we must look for God to join us where we are at. I’m glad we each have our own story that is different than everyone else. I just want to hear “well done, good and faithful servant.”

  3. Kristin Calderwood Says:
    June 14th, 2007 at 7:00 pm

    So… I am with JJ on the commenting thing… I am using this space to make a comment about the upcoming movie version of Blue Like Jazz. First of all… it is my favorite book relating to “non-religious thoughts on Christain Spirituality” I read it a few years back and am now leading a small group type book club in the community in which my husband and I pastor. While reading your book, I laugh out loud constantly (which is rare for me… it takes a lot for me to laugh since I consider myself hilarious…) and just am always trying to soak as much as I can in… I know this is a shot in the dark, but I would LOVE to be in the movie…. even if I am some background coffee sipper or something. I used to be an actress before my pastor’s wife days (long story) and just really feel like this movie could make such a HUGE impact on others… it has impacted me more than any other book, besides maybe the bible if I am being religious…. Please contact me, I would love love love to be a part of it, I would even be the assistant to the assistant to the assistant’s third director. I know you are a really busy man and if you never contact me, just know some cool but crazy pastors wife thinks you are the best… and I will still see the movie, probably numerous times!! ;)

  4. Geof F. Morris Says:
    June 14th, 2007 at 10:11 pm

    A suggestion to you all, though: don’t abuse this route to email Don. If the comments aren’t topical, he may well ask Bryan to change things back. So respect Don’s time, folks.

  5. Debra Stevens Says:
    June 16th, 2007 at 12:38 pm

    Hi Don,
    Comments? Love the journal thing. Heard you at Willow Creek and was blown away by how real you were and what a new spin on life, what is your story. Bought the book Blue Like Jazz…it’s like a cross between reading a diary and an add on a dating site…totally love it. I have purchased multiple copies of your book to pass on to my friends who won’t go to church as well as the webcast from Willow.

    It is so refreshing to hear you put into words what I’ve always felt..so many areas that I was like , that’s me! pretty awesome. When I read what you had the husband say to the wife in polaroids.. I had a hard time believing I was reading from the same author.

    Funny, I recently just discoverd Patty Griffin, on Austin City Limits and immediately downloaded a bunch of her tunes… and then I read that line about listening to Patty Griffin.

    Anyways … I could ramble on but don’t want to take up your time.. wish you had a way to email.. much more to say.
    Deb

  6. Deb Shoe Says:
    June 16th, 2007 at 9:30 pm

    I am moved that you live, move, and breathe and belong to God, too. May you be blessed as you continue to find Him more than you ever knew. And I WILL pray that you never walk away. Thanks for being a beautiful teacher. I felt I enjoyed part of your vacation with you. It was much needed.
    Blessings-
    Deb

  7. Heidi Says:
    June 19th, 2007 at 5:58 pm

    Dear Mr. Miller,

    I think it’s wonderful that you got to experience Machu Picchu! I was in Peru last year doing volunteer work for three weeks and never made it to the lost city of the Incas. :( It gives me an excuse to go back to see it, though. I did get to take a weekend on the coast where we visited some wineries/distilleries that made the national liquor, Pisco. Hoowee is that stuff strong when it’s fresh from the cask - it’s enough to curl your straight hairs! We also got to see the oasis of Huacachina, and the mysterious Candelabra and Nazca Lines. Did you get a chance to see these places too? I’m looking forward to seeing your pictures! When travelers share their stories, they bring new corners of the world home to the rest of us.

    Take care,
    Heidi

  8. Donald Miller Says:
    June 20th, 2007 at 1:09 am

    Heidi,

    We did have our share of Pisco Sour’s, though ours were mixed with sugar and were more sweet than sour. But my friend Steve couldn’t go anywhere without ordering one. That is cool you got to see the other ruins. We mostly stayed around the Sacred Valley with the exception of a short trip into the Amazon. But the Andes are the gems in Peru. It would be worth a trip back to hike the Inca Trail if you ever get the opportunity.

    Don

  9. Donald Miller Says:
    June 20th, 2007 at 1:11 am

    J.J.

    I hope you find this post down here. But here is that quote from Robert McKee’s book entitled Story. This is the last paragraph of the book:

    “Write every day, line by line, page by page, hour by hour. Do this despite fear. For above all else, beyond imagination and skill, what the world asks of you is courage, courage to risk rejection, ridicule and failure. As you follow the quest for stories told with meaning and beauty, study thoughtfully but write boldly. Then, like the hero of the fable, your dance will dazzle the world.”

    Don

  10. Dana Says:
    June 20th, 2007 at 12:42 pm

    Don,

    I too saw you at willow creek and to be honest i know nothing about the incas. But I know about my life being a story, and how the first 25.5 years of that story being solely about me, but after encountering Jesus Christ, and reading exactly what his life meant to me, and what he risked for me, my story changed. My story has never been more exciting. Its funny how i always thought the Christian walk was one of rules and narrow thinking, but when truly living for Christ’s agenda, where HE takes you is limitless. If i am going to Africa, it is living proof our Heavely Father has a sense of humor. I see him loving irony. I love that about him. My friend Amy, whom you also met, said that one of my chapters should be “the day i almost had coffee with Donald Miller” i thought it would be funny, but you might come back and say…. “we didn’t almost have coffee, what are you talking about?” shaking your head, and rolling your eyes. I wish I could pick your brain. I wish you could realize the amount of times i read your one of your books and it touched something inside me i could not put to words on my own. You have been truly my favorite writer. My friend Amy and I stay up for hours talking about different dynamics of Christianity, and i just joined a small group a year ago, which was really hard for me because I disliked Christian people so much, but God worked through it, God worked through your writing, your speaking, and many others. I think I like Christian people for the most part now. At least i won’t say i don’t like them. I think they are as judged as the non CHristians now for their faith and that is something i never realized when i was the one rolling my eyes at them. Do i make sense? I wantd to talk to you the night you flew in from Chicago, I wanted to take you to the air port on friday, but i didn’t want you to think i was some sort of stalker. My friend Amy, said that you prob thought that i was trying to convince you to stay for the fundraiser. Not at all.

    when i get back from africa can i email you? I am sure i will have some great stories for you, maybe i could even tell you over coffee? over the phone? text message? okay, blogging will do too. It was my pleasure to meet you, you were awesome in person. I loved listening to you speak and your mannerisms on stage were adorable. If you have a girlfriend she is one lucky girl. She gets to have braingasms all the time!!! (you can edit that part out if you need to) Feel free to spell check this too, my typing is so poor. :(

    God bless you Don,
    Dana

  11. Morgan Says:
    June 23rd, 2007 at 10:42 am

    Hey Don,
    Its great you got to see Peru!
    I lived in Bolivia, right next door for years and I never got to see the Inca trails and Machu Pichu! One day I hope to go back and see!
    Its really awesome that you can write about what you saw there, you know? I have seen so many things that I wish I could put into words even just about the fields and the little friendly people!
    I’m glad you got to go!
    ~ M

  12. Heidi Says:
    June 23rd, 2007 at 10:54 am

    Dana,

    Just curious, where are you going in Africa? Are you going with a group or organization?

    Heidi

  13. Rocio Says:
    June 29th, 2007 at 12:26 pm

    Hello my name is Rocio and I`m from Perù, I`m here because I just want to invite all the people who loves “Machupicchu” to vote for to get that Machupicchu will be a new7wonders.
    Please vote for Machupicchu in this webside.
    http://www.new7wonders.com
    I think Machupicchu is a wonder..don`t you think that???!!vote plssss

  14. Erik Says:
    July 14th, 2007 at 11:30 pm

    Hi Don -

    I was wondering if you were planning on developing a book out of your Machu Picchu travels? When I read your post it reminded me of one of my favorite books, “A Walk in the Woods” by Bill Bryson. Are you a fan of his writings too?

    Also, I loved the pics of the alpaca on your Flickr account. It made me chuckle thinking of your comments from the Willow Creek Arts Conference. BTW, I told my wife I like her alpacas. hehe.

    Blessings,
    Erik

  15. Dana Keuer Says:
    July 17th, 2007 at 8:43 pm

    Heidi,

    I went with an organization in Zambia called Jubilee center. It was a truly amazing experience. I worked in a community called Mapalo. We taught purity clubs to church leaders there, AIDS awareness ministries, AIDS home based care, and activities with the children. I plan on going back next summer. I was deeply moved by the children of Mapalo. I made friends with a 7 year old boy named Calvin. He was one of the only children who suffered from albino in Mapalo. Calvin was an orphan who had painful lesions from head to toe. I just got word that Calvin passed away last weekend from a dog bite. They beleive it to have been rabies. It breaks my heart. I know Calvin is in a better place. I have a blog that has a few pics on there. I have not posted my journals yet, they need some editing. http://www.danakeuer.blogspot.com
    Are you interested in going Heidi? if so where?
    Dana

  16. Heidi Says:
    July 20th, 2007 at 5:13 pm

    Dana,

    I’m sorry to hear about Calvin; I saw his picture on your blog.

    I’m a bit excitable when it comes to volunteer work and travel. My bags are pretty much already packed. (I came to Portland yesterday, and I’m planning on going to the book reading tonight.) The experiences of others is something I’m interested in hearing about. It sounds like you had an awesome time. I looked at the Jubilee Centre website, and it seems like a very effective ministry. I’m always open to new short term missions opportunities, if I can afford it. (For some reason, vagabonding is making me go broke. :))One question, though, did you have to speak in front of groups of people? That’s the scary part for me.

    Heidi

  17. Paul Says:
    July 24th, 2007 at 2:21 pm

    Great post. Eager for your next book.

    But, I don’t think the people of the Andes had their personalities affected by typeography — though topography may have affected them.

    (A TYPEO/TOPO typo!)

  18. Dana Says:
    August 10th, 2007 at 8:28 am

    Heidi,
    Hope all went well in Portland. Yes we did have to speak in groups of people. Well, you didn’t HAVE to, but if you wanted to you could. I was comfortable doing it in Purity Club settings where it was more of a discussion panel then me just sharing openly. I liked when it was open discussion with my panel of purity club leaders because it was alot less threatening.

    I wish you well in your desire to volunteer. I would love to hear where God has taken you till now. How did the book reading go? I am sure it was amazing.

    What do you do?